Oregon has built a growing reputation for high-quality wines. It's not unheard of for someone to praise an Oregon pinot noir at a dinner party. But there's a new Oregon bottle coming to a lot of dinner tables, and this one is filled with something completely different — olive oil.

The Oregon Department of Agriculture recently offered a look at the growing olive oil industry in the state, noting that just 10 years ago the crop wasn't on the radar for most farmers. Today there are 15 olive growers in the state; and while that's not a huge number, it's showing that momentum is building for the crop.

California has already shown it can grow olives and create high-quality olive oil. In fact, the respected magazine Cooks Illustrated recently chose a California olive oil as its preferred brand over some top Italian brands. The U.S. is taking a stand in the olive world, just as it did in the wine world back in the 1970s.

What's driving this interest in olive oil? A changing American diet that is looking to Mediterranean dishes may be one reason. Note also that in dietary circles, a Mediterranean diet is recommended for those with heart disease. Also, olive oil is a preferred fat for top chefs across the country.

ODA noted that a pioneering group of growers and producers — including the late Larry Monagon of Victory Estates in Keizer, and David Lawrence of Amity — recognized the potential for olives in the state; and they saw an opportunity to produce quality extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) in the state, too.

In the report, ODA quotes Bogdan Caceu of Willamette Valley's La Creole Orchards, and executive director of Olive Growers of Oregon: "Oregon olive growers and producers are following a path similar to that taken by pinot noir winemakers 40 years ago. Why make Oregon olive oil? Because we can, because it's a great product and it's healthy."

Managing climate issues
And Oregon may have an edge on quality due to its cooler climate, which can create olives with a richer, more intense flavor; and Oregon-milled olive oil may have higher levels of antioxidants.

About 15 varietals are grown on about 50 acres now, mostly in the Willamette Valley, but there are still questions about which types are best for the region. A big threat to olive trees is freezing temperatures, but Caceu noted that there are varieties raised in northern Italy and higher altitudes in France that may work well in Oregon.

The state did suffer a freeze event in 2013 that got growers to begin propagating starts, to replicate the best individual varietals from those that survived.

Paul Durant, co-owner of the Oregon Olive Mill at Red Ridge Farms in Dayton, was one of those growers. The operation has about 17 acres of olive trees in two locations where they lost trees in 2013. While root systems can survive the freeze, the trees can take up to four years to start producing again. Durant noted that cold-tolerant trees don't yield as much oil per pound of olives as those from warmer climates, but the oil is "special, and so unique."

Oregon Olive Mill is having success with several varietals, and the mill also sources olives from California producers for oil. The operation holds an Olio Nuovo (new oil) Festival at Red Ridge Farms annually. This is the freshest EVOO and is noticeably different, due to fine organic particles in the oil that give it a cloudy appearance. This unfiltered form of olive oil adds vibrancy and richness to the taste.

See related "Turning to alternative crops," where we feature a look at Red Ridge Farms and the Oregon Olive Mill.

Olives and the resulting oil are offering new opportunities in the state. You can learn more about this effort the original ODA story at bit.ly/oregonoliveoil.

Source: Oregon Department of Agriculture