Jess Jackson, who founded Kendall-Jackson Winery in 1982, died last week at the age of 81, leaving an almost incalculable legacy on the California wine industry.He transformed it at least twice, first in establishing a style of wine that would come to be as much an irresistible flavor profile as a cultural icon.He would go on to become one of the state's most passionate and articulate advocates for the preeminence of place in the production of great California wine.