Farm Progress

Midwest fish (yes, you can)

What’s Cooking in Illinois: A farmer-turned-chef explains exactly how to cook fish — and it’s not as hard as you think.

Charlyn Fargo Ware

July 18, 2018

5 Min Read
GRILLED FISH: This recipe for Strawberry Citrus Salsa Over Grilled Halibut is great for summer.

We Midwesterners are great at grilling beef and chicken, but many of us struggle with fish. I hear it in the grocery store where I work: “I’d eat more fish, but I’m afraid I’d mess it up when I cook it.”

While we do raise a lot of beef, chicken and pork in the Midwest, fish is also an important part of a healthy diet. The American Heart Association and the Dietary Guidelines for Americans recommend including fish on your menu two to three times a week to lower the risk of heart disease. Eating fish fights heart disease in several ways. The omega-3 fats in fish protect the heart against the development of erratic cardiac rhythms, lower blood pressure and heart rate, improve blood vessel function, and can even lower triglycerides and ease inflammation.

So how should you cook it?

Kent Morris of Jacksonville, Ill., a former farmer who’s now a chef, says don’t be afraid.

“Fish is the easiest protein to fix,” he says. “Where most people go wrong is they buy poor-quality fish and then overcook it. All you need to do is buy good quality, season it lightly, and then cook it at 400 degrees F for eight minutes.”

Morris recommends starting with the “presentation” side of the fish placed on the grill first to give the fish grill marks; then after four minutes, flip it over on the skin side.

The method works for nearly all types of fish, from crappie to catfish, and whether you’re baking or grilling. Don’t worry about cedar planks at this point; try placing fish right on the grill to build your confidence.

His favorite fish is salmon, which he bakes or grills and seasons with Paul Prudhomme’s Magic Salmon Seasoning. Nothing fancy. You can use Illinois-based Riley’s seasoning as well.

When it comes to ahi tuna or swordfish, which are thicker fish, Morris recommends letting the fish sit out at room temperature for a half-hour. Then use a small amount of clarified butter or olive oil and cook for one and a half or two minutes per side. “You’ll see a color change about a third of the way up the fillet — then it’s ready to flip,” he says.

Before Morris grills fish, he cleans the grill grates with a paper towel and oil.

“The hardest thing for people is not to turn the fish for four minutes. It’s best if you just leave it there and don’t mess with it,” he says.

From farmer to chef
Morris grew up on a typical Midwest farm, raising corn, beans, wheat, cattle and hogs in Morgan and Scott counties. But unlike most farmers, he had a career change in midlife, trading his tractor for a chef’s knife.

“I farmed all my life — driving a tractor at 12 years old, helping my dad — and when I was old enough, I took over the family farm,” Morris says.

At age 46, he sold the farm and spent a year caring for his ailing father, all the while nursing his own bad back. Knowing he needed a new career, he set his sights on culinary school.

“When I told my wife, she thought I’d go to Lincoln Land [Community College] or something close,” Morris says. “I wanted to go to Scottsdale to the Arizona Culinary Institute. It’s an exclusive school with only 22 students a session. I was lucky enough to get in.”

Six months later, he had his chef’s degree and was ready to follow the next step in his dream.

“I thought I’d get into the restaurant business, but I ended up at Robert’s Seafood [in Springfield] — they had a position for an executive chef to teach people how to cook seafood.”

He spent nine and a half years there before taking a job in the seafood department at Hy-Vee in Springfield.

The transition from farming to seafood was a good one for Morris.

“I missed farming for about two hours,” he says. “Seriously, what I miss most about agriculture is the people, but I feel like I’m helping people every day. When I farmed, I loved working outside, setting my own schedule. One of the reasons I chose to go to culinary school was to learn how to cook correctly.”

Here’s a fish recipe to try on your grill.

Strawberry Citrus Salsa Over Grilled Halibut
1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled and chopped
1 medium orange, peeled, sectioned and cut into chunks
½ shallot, finely chopped
½ serrano chile pepper, sliced
1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh basil
½ teaspoon lime zest
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, divided
4 (4-ounce) fresh halibut fillets
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Lime wedges for serving

Combine strawberries, orange, shallot, chile pepper, basil, lime zest and 1 tablespoon lime juice in a medium bowl. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes.

Preheat a gas grill with oiled grill rack for direct cooking over medium heat. Rinse fish; pat dry with paper towels. Combine remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice and oil; drizzle over fish. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper.

Grill fish for four minutes and then flip. The fish is done when it flakes using a fork or when it reaches 145 degrees F with a thermometer. Serve fish topped with salsa. Serve with lime wedges. Serves four.

Per serving: 170 calories, 22 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrate, 5 grams fat, 55 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams fiber, 370 milligrams sodium

Fargo is a dietitian for Hy-Vee in Springfield, Ill. Send recipe ideas to her at [email protected].

About the Author

Charlyn Fargo Ware

Charlyn Fargo Ware is a registered dietitian with Southern Illinois University Medical School in Springfield, Ill. Email recipe ideas to her at [email protected].

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